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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.