Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
